A week-end in Stockholm
Contributed by Jens Hoffmann
The Swedish capital has long ranked among the loveliest in Europe, with an inner-city beauty characterized by stately architecture and graceful waterways. But openings in outlying neighborhoods — galleries in the north, boutiques in the south, a craft brewery in the suburbs, art in the archipelago — are expanding the limits of the city worth exploring. Add to that Stockholm’s exciting restaurant scene, born from the popular New Nordic food movement, and the hometown pride is perfectly understandable.
I checked in on the water’s edge at Nacka Strand at Hotel J.
It has its own guest harbor and offers sweeping views of the Royal Djurgården, the island of Lidingö and the boats on Saltsjön. The architects at Millimeter and designers at R.O.O.M. have transformed the 1912 brick building into a stylish shrine to seafaring – and an American one at that.
The concept of Hotel J draws on the nautical design of historic America’s Cup J-Class boats and the distinct feel of the New England coast. The evocative red, white, and blue of the stars and stripes invite visitors from across the Atlantic to feel completely at home. But guests from anywhere will appreciate the homey feel of white wood, cotton textiles, and solid oak furniture. In the lobby, fireside seats afford wide-angle views of the islands near Stockholm, just 15 minutes’ sailing time away.
The 158 guestrooms, in five different categories, feature natural materials such as wooden trim and fine linens that evoke an authentic feeling of comfort and ease. There are also four suites with a separate sleeping area on the upper floor, downstairs lounge, balcony and views over the sea. There are two meeting and function villas: J’ Fabrikörsvilla and the historic J’ Tornvilla which is home to The Club House bar and lounge. Decorated in the relaxed and comfortable style of New England yacht clubs it serves classic drinks and is inspired by American cuisine.
At the water’s edge Marine Brasserie Restaurant J is a culinary and visual experience with views over the bay and simple, sophisticated brasserie cuisine focused on seafood.
Try it.
Restaurant F12
The F12 – in walking distance from the central train station combines modern design, nouvelle cuisine, located in the Royal Academy of Arts building, and the room is a light and airy one with a very high ceiling. They serve top ingredients, great wines, two menu selections (5 or 9 course) for choice.
F12 is run by Danyel Couet, and has a Michelin star, tables are generously spaced and laid with white linen, and the room can accommodate 65 covers at any one sitting.
We ate from the set lunch menu, tartare of scallops was flavoured with wood sorrel, apple juice and garnished with blackened onion.
This was a quite pretty and refreshing dish, the scallops of good quality and the apple providing a little acidity to balance the scallop.
The wine list had global scope, with selections eg. 2008 Albarino from Martin Codax.
An in-between course was a duck liver bonbon with cherry, the cherry went well with the duck though I am less sure at what the salmiac really added.
The main course was sirloin of Swedish beef, in this case supplied from a cooperative of eleven farms near Stockholm. This was served with celeriac puree, oxtail and garnished with truffle from Gotland. The beef had good flavour. Finally a vanilla brioche base with cream cheese sorbet, apple and bramble sorbet with vanilla skin a foam of arctic bramble and strawberry, with a little mountain salt added. This was an enjoyable end to the meal. Yummy.
You want an eating experience in Stockholm go for it.
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