Porto is a city on the rise; a tangible air of purpose cloaks the granite streets.
In Porto is everytime ,something new to explore.
New initiatives, from the first literary festival, to wine weeks, food festivals.
A good place to dip into for a few days – good food and wine, history and heritage our culture joy.
If it is noon, you could leave the market and stop just nearby for a drink at the Belle Époque Café Majestic, which opened in 1921 and was the haunt of writers and artists.
You can see the Palladium Galleries Clock across the street from a table outside. On the hour, four little figurines come out as it chimes. Two are Portuguese poets; one is Prince Henry the Navigator of The Golden Age of Discovery fame, and the other is St. John the Baptist, Patron Saint of Porto.
Go with the flow, go down Douro river.
Mix the old in with the new and head to the Wine Bar for lunch at the three-story Matricia townhouse, recently opened by the Symington family; fifth-generation premium port and wine producers. Named in honour of their original matriarch in Portugal, Anglo-Portuguese Beatriz was renowned for the dinners she hosted. The Wine Bar on the ground floor (do look at the tiles underfoot) has zingy, light dishes like seabass carpaccio with lemon, pistachios and avocado alongside traditional beef croquettes.
Suitably refreshed, find your way along Porto’s or Chapel of Souls.
It is a church often featured due to its exquisite blue and white tiled exteriors, which portray the lives of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Catherine of Alexandria.
Do not mis San Bento railway station where more than 20,000 painted ceramic tiles created at the beginning of the 20th century.
There are famous bookshops.
Ask 4 Hogwarts-style staircase, a definite source of inspiration for one-time resident JK Rowling and a treasure trove of books.
But don’t miss Vista Allegre for glass, porcelain and the pottery of Bordallo Pinheiro, whose cabbage leaf plates you may well know.
For a more contemporary take, try the CostaNova both muted and minimalist and very desirable.
Claus Porto, Portugal’s most iconic soap and scent brand, has its flagship store in pedestrianised Rua das Flores.
Try their scent, Alto Mar, inspired by the Atlantic and stock up on soaps in their trademark, vibrant, Art Nouveau wrapping paper.
Try Cozina de Flores where Chef de Cuisine Mendes offers his contemporary twist on northern Portuguese food with fine dininig touch.
Enjoy the sensational pastel de nata, which here, rather than a custard tart, is filled with turnip and topped with caviar. But settle in for more than that, for me this is Portuguese food at its best, and the room with its open fire and kitchen is one made for lingering.
Adjoining it is Porto’s popular Bar Sibling.
It spills onto the street, making it a great people-watching place for a nightcap in this busy corner of town. Cocktails to try are Clichéd, where mixologist Tatiana, who created it, imported elements of cod and coriander, stereotypical Portuguese flavours. Try Relish, too, for its umami complexi
‘In Braga, they pray; in Coimbra, they study; in Porto, they work; and in Lisbon they play,’ goes the old Portuguese saying.
Nevertheless, there are churches in Porto and many well worth visiting.
The most impressive is Sao Francisco classified as a National Monument in 1910 and no longer used for worship. Its richly gilded interiors are the best example of Baroque decoration.
Start there, as it is so central, and then head up to the Clerigos.
Built by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni in the 18th century, its 75-metre-tall bell tower is a city landmark.
Views over Porto and the Douro River are magnificent from the top. Lastly, explore Porto’s cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. It has been much altered over the years, but not the 13th-century rose window and the blue and white lining.
One of my favourite fine-dining restaurants is Pedro Lemos.
Wow!
Pedro delivers authentic Portuguese flavours with passion. It is a pleasure to eat there, with a satisfying absence of the theatre that sometimes accompanies meals in Michelin-starred restaurants. Here, you’ll just find really good food, really well done.
Afternoon
The serales Museum goes bucket list.
An excellent place to stop. It is designed by architect Siza Vieira.
You’ll find it in the lovely Serralves park.
There is plenty to do in the park, from the treetop walk, to the many sculptures exhibited there, as well as in the Museum itself.
Those looking to buy art should try the many galleries and shops in Miguel Bombarda Steet.
Look out for galleries recommended for its prints and illustrations.
I recommend dinner at Casa Boa Nova.
The food is amazing and worthy of its two Michelin stars, but it is the whole setting that makes it.
Chef Rui Paula is from this part of Portugal, and Siza Vieira, the architect who designed this little gem which sits on the cliff top as the sea rages beneath it, is also from nearby.
Best before the sun sets so you can soak up the view.
Boa sorte, Porto.
