Londong calling. Hotel Savoy.
By Jens Hoffmann
International Airport Heathrow 5, my number one hub after Changi / Singapore.
Closer to home, Heathrow Terminal 5 did always well for its guests. Indeed.
London calling, we went to the Hotel Savoy.
The gold-leaf opulence of the Beaufort champagne bar. The Savoy is back on top.
For me one of the most iconic hotels, which had huge restoration and nowadays back on the track.
Feeling a bit like in formers times when I entered the lobby. The old reception has gone but the atmosphere was still stylish -maybe a bit rusty- the butler asked our names while ushering us into the famous Savoy lobby, so he can send the trolleys to the room.
The hotel is now managed by Fairmont Hotels and Resorts. Sure it is one of “London’s most famous hotels”. I love it.
The hotel was built by Richard D’Oyly Carte in 1889.
Lifts, electric light and en suite bathrooms all had their hotel debut here. It was Marlene Dietrich’s London hotel of choice and Monroe’s.
Compared with cool new bars in, say, Claridge’s or the Mandarin Oriental, it was a bit of an emperor’s new clothes experience.
The marble floor is just elegant, the plasterwork frieze given pale paint and mahogany panelling has had exfoliation and polish.
At the suite, tail-coated the butler appears and asked for the credit card.
We entered a different world, the world of Savoy.
Here, exquisite bed linen, a mattress costing thousands, china, softened tap water, personalised notepaper and perfectly polished fresh fruit conspire to enhance my stay.
The hotel has 268 rooms panoramic views of the River Thames across Savoy Place and the Thames Embankment.
The Savoy Tea shop – reminiscent of Burlington Arcade and displaying tiny chocolates, petits fours and loose-leaf teas – draws me in like a wrecker’s lantern would a ship.
The River Restaurant has shrunk a bit, as though not to steal the glittering, chandeliered thunder of Gordon Ramsay’s return to form at the Grill, but food and service are a joy.
The American Bar has cheered up immeasurably, it gives the Savoy a fighting chance of luring the cocktail set from rival five-star bars. The Savoy is back where it belongs – right on top.
Just perfect. Sir Winston Churchill took his cabinet to lunch at the hotel.
We remembered us at the Savoy Havana Band and other musicans, actors and celebrities like Frank Sinatra, Enrico Caruso, Charlie Chaplin, Harry Truman, Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe, John Wayne, Humphrey Bogart, Elizabeth Taylor, Barbra Streisand and not to forget The Beatles.
Come over, explore and discover.
It’s worth a stay.
My resto tip: Gordon Ramsay
We just had Ramsay in Italy.
Now G. Ramsay in London.
The kitchen here is cooking at Michelin star level, service is of a very high standard here.
The main problem is getting a reservation.
The meal began with cheese gougeres, which are always a welcome way to start a meal.
A lot of restaurants make these, but not so many do them well. They should ideally be served warm, have plenty of cheese flavour and of course the choux pastry should be very delicate.
Bread is supplied from the Flour Station, a selection of white, brown, black olive, rosemary and slices of potato and honey bread. It was very good. Pumpkin soup was poured over roasted cep, ricotta cheese and Alsace bacon, with a bacon tuile on the side of the plate with pumpkin seeds as garnish.
Ballotine of smoked confit duck with pears (pickled, poached and pureed) was served with walnuts and pain d’epice. This dish had good balance, the acidity of the pear working well with the richness of the terrine. Even better was warm foie gras with sweetbreads, carrots and almond foam and Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar. The foie gras was of high quality and had silky smooth texture yet deep liver flavour, the vinegar gave balance to the dish and the sweetbreads themselves were a triumph, having gorgeous texture.
A take on carbonara was made using soft hen egg yolk, smoked pomme puree, caramelised onions, Iberico ham, smoked bacon and onion consommé, topped with an emulsion of four year old Parmesan. This was a rich and comforting dish, it could be argued that there were a lot of flavours going on here, but it was yummy and delicious.
Scallop was cooked with with lardo di colonnata (pork lard from Tuscany) and served with apple, walnuts, celery and cider emulsion. The scallop had nice natural sweetness and was lightly cooked, the apple provided a balancing sharpness, but while this was an enjoyable dish the flavours did not really stand out for me.
Oscietra caviar and a veloute of caviar and oyster. The fish was excellent and accurately seasoned.
Pigeon with polenta was served with carrots and braised shallots, foie gras and smoked ventreche, and a sauce made from dates and the cooking juices. The pigeon (from Bresse) was itself excellent, the sauce very good, and I admire anyone that can make polenta taste decent.
Pre-dessert was lime and apple sorbet with lime mousse and avocado, diced Granny Smith apple, eucalyptus and shiso (Japanese mint). This was a pretty and refreshing dish, the sorbet having excellent texture and the lime providing freshness.
Loved that.
London calling again…
Photo: Thomas Hauer.
